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Marbleizing
How do I marbleize?
Marbleizing Instructions
Prep 1:
Before base coating, make sure your surface is in good condition. Patch holes and cracks with spackling paste, and wash any dirt from surface using a mild soap. Mask all windows, baseboards, and moldings using 2" painter's tape. Evenly apply paint with roller. Base coat should always be a satin or semi gloss latex finish. Two coats may be necessary depending on coverage. Let dry 24 hours.
Prep 2:
Before you faux, prepare your glaze/paint mixtures. A 5:1 ratio (5 parts glaze to one part paint) is highly recommended. This ratio will allow you time to work the finish and prevent it from drying too fast. You will need 3 different glaze colors for this technique.
Step 1:
To create your first layer of marble drifts use a 3" latex brush to apply glaze A in a diagonal, serpentine fashion. Leave portions of the base coat showing through.
Step 2:
Deepen the dimension of your finish by creating drifts of glaze B (this color is slightly darker than A) that slightly overlap the first drifts. Use a second 3" latex brush to apply glaze B in the same manner as step 1, covering the remaining base coat.
Step 3:
Saturate your sponge with water, ringing out thoroughly until slightly damp. Delicately tap the surface with your sponge, blending the colors into one another until you have achieved a soft mottled effect.
Step 4:
Continue to work the two colors together by quickly pouncing the entire surface with a stippling brush.
Step 5:
Add subtle touches of glaze C (slightly darker than Glaze B). to recreate the depth of marble. Dip the nubbly side of your sea sponge into glaze C, off-loading excess paint onto a paper plate. Apply glaze C lightly and sparingly to areas you wish to intensify.
Step 6:
Use a badger softening brush to blend glaze C into the surface. Hold the brush with a loose wrist and use a delicate touch. Make light diagonal and figure-8 motions with the brush until glaze is gently clouded.
Step 7:
You are now ready for the veining process. Dip the end of a feather into Glaze B, off-loading excess paint onto a paper plate. Hold the feather loosely, dragging in a diagonal line, flanking the drifts. Remember, realistic veins vary in length, thickness and intensity. You can gently blend some of your veins (see step 6) if you feel they are too harsh.
Step 8:
You may add additional white veins by dipping a squirrel hair swordliner brush into the base coat and repeating step 7. When you are satisfied with your faux marble, let dry for at least 24 hours. Seal the entire surface with two coats of varnish for protection and sheen.
Tip 1:
Before you start your project, find a real piece of marble that works with your decor. Study your piece of marble and become familiar with it's coloring and veining patterns.
Tip 2:
When veining marble, variety is key. One helpful trick is to vary the pressure you apply to the brush or feather. This will produce different vein widths. Let your hand tremble slightly while dragging the veining tool. Remember that veins never join at right angles, and avoid making your marks unnaturally repetitive.
Tip 3:
Marbleizing is a gradual process of layering subtle tones of color. When using your blending tools (sponge and stippling brush) it is important not to overwork your area. This will prevent the marble from appearing too muddy.
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